Served piping hot in a gourd at the end of the afternoon, tacacá soup is an indispensable dish in the cities of Brazilian Amazonia.
Made with manioc, dried shrimp, and jambu – the plant that causes tingling –, the soup has indigenous origins and is prepared by tacacazeiras.
Now, the art of these cooks, guardians of the recipe, has been recognized as Brazil’s cultural heritage by the National Institute of Historical and Artistic Heritage (IPHAN).
Generally, tacacá recipes are family secrets passed down from generation to generation. Each family has its own way of balancing the alkalinity of the starch with the acidity of the tucupi, seasoned with chicory, basil, and even garlic, varying from vendor to vendor.
Once registered as heritage, it is up to the institute to develop a plan for its preservation. The measure should include ways to promote the cuisine, manage small businesses, facilitate access to raw materials, and improve sales points.
A source of pride
At 71 years old, Maria de Nazaré, also known as Tia Naza, says she learned to make the dish from her grandmother and mother. For 15 years, selling tacacá in Manaus has been her main source of income.
“Tacacá has always been part of my life. I used to sell it at the end of the afternoon, after work, at my doorstep. I raised two grandsons who became lawyers, two who became doctors, and one who became a journalist,” she recounted.
Nazaré was in Brasília this week and participated in the IPHAN meeting that made tacacá a national heritage. She celebrated the decision.
“Being a tacacar means taking pride in our unique ingredients. Amazonian cuisine is alive, powerful, and deserves to be celebrated,” she declared.
Over the years, the tacacá broth has undergone variations. The recipe began to be served with crab, popcorn, and even a vegan version with hearts of palm or olives.
Research
To have the craft of the tacacás recognized as cultural heritage, the institute organized a research and documentation project on the tradition involved in preparing the dish, as well as the related knowledge, from purchasing ingredients to commercialization.
The work was carried out in partnership with the Federal University of Western Pará (UFOPA). The team visited seven Brazilian states, documenting and interviewing cooks about the registration process.
In the dossier that underpinned the decision to include the craft in the Book of Knowledges, institute experts state that the tacacás are “guardians of knowledge and secrets” and perpetuate “not only the preparation methods of an elaborate dish, but also forms of sociability”.
These women, the document continues, are also responsible for transmitting “exclusive wisdom”, step by step, so that the practice is not lost.
History
Tacacá is a traditional indigenous dish, but its commercialization was first recorded at the end of the 19th century, with urban expansion in the region and labor shortages.
At that time, women began selling food on the streets as a survival strategy, conciliating domestic tasks with work.
Source: Agência Brasil