Experiencing Hawaii Without Tourists: A Gift from the Pandemic

Traveling during the pandemic was not in my plans, but as life is a box of surprises, the opportunity to move to Hawaii arose and I didn’t hesitate. Due to the current global situation, many attractions are temporarily closed and/or empty, which turned out to be ideal for people like me who dislike crowded places and tourists – even though I am one of them.The first thing I did was look for a place to volunteer, and being fascinated by how the Hawaiian islands were formed, I decided to start looking for volunteer work related to nature to better understand how plants and trees began to sprout on these islands. I have always been more urban, but I started wanting to get closer to nature during the pandemic. It didn’t take long for me to find an opportunity at one of the largest botanical gardens on the island of Oahu, Ho’omaluhia (which means peaceful refuge) with 161 hectares of plants and trees. One of the first things I learned was that through nature it is possible to know the history of the place from colonization to modern times. There, I met local people who gave me several tips on what to do and places off the tourist guide. For example, the small Makapu’u beach, where the sea is calm, but with enough waves for those who like to surf in the peace of an almost deserted beach. Besides cultural tips, which I love, such as indigenous religious beliefs and the practices of native Hawaiians who, like our Umbanda, believe in deities and spirits found in non-human beings and in nature like other animals, the waves, and the sky. Among the deities are Laka, Kihawahine, Haumea, Papahānaumoku, and the most famous, Pelée, God of volcanoes and fire, and of a wonderful hidden temple near the beach I mentioned above, Makapu’u, called Pelée’s Chair, a hidden gem with one of the best views on the island. It is a bit difficult to climb, but it’s worth it. Park on Makapu’u Lighthouse Road and take the unpaved trail towards the sea (to the right of the road – Kaiwi Shoreline Trail). The path forks when you reach the sea – take the left fork.The best thing about Oahu is that there is so much to do and you don’t have to limit yourself to beautiful beaches. As long as you have transportation (renting a car is very simple), there is an abundance of incredible things to do all over the island. As I said, the island is empty because of the pandemic, and the tourist spots are empty, and I was very lucky to catch the reopening – after seven months closed – of one of the most touristy places on the island, Hanauma Bay. It is an incredibly popular marine protected area for snorkeling and scuba diving. I arrived there before it opened and we went straight in. If you arrive later, expect to find huge lines and a packed parking lot. Honestly, I felt that snorkeling at Hanauma Bay was a bit overrated. But it was worth the visit, since it was the reopening. However, if you like snorkeling, I have a better suggestion. Buy a snorkeling kit at Target – don’t forget the fins – and go to Lanikai beach, where the sea is calm with many corals and colorful fish. There you can also rent a canoe to go to an island in the middle of the sea in front of the beach, and enjoy the spectacular sunset. I have been doing this three times a week. With all these activities, eating well is very important. Please forget the tourist restaurants in Waikiki, and explore the local restaurants created by generations of families with native food. My suggestion is Helena’s Hawaiian Food, which has been around since 1946 (before Hawaii became part of the United States), created by Helena Chock. It is a simple and unpretentious restaurant now run by Helena’s grandson, Craig Katsuyoshi. There I had the best pork ribs and fried Ahi of my life. If you want a super traditional dish, try Poi and Laulau (the taste is a bit strange, but those who are in the rain must get wet).To wrap up, my friends from the botanical garden gave me two books about the history of Hawaii that I am loving and highly recommend for anyone who wants to absorb more of the history of Hawaiian culture. They are: “A Concise History of the Hawaiian Islands,” which tells the story from colonization to modern times in a summarized and concise way, and the book written by journalist Samuel Langhorne Clemens who lived on the island for months working as a correspondent for a newspaper, “Mark Twain in Hawaii: Roughing It in the Sandwich Islands, Hawaii in the 1860’s.”VIVIANE FAVERJournalistvfaver@gmail.com